Looking for one of the most scenic drives in the Yorkshire Dales? This Buttertubs loop combines dramatic moorland roads, charming villages, historic landmarks and breathtaking views into one unforgettable circular route. Perfect for anyone exploring the Yorkshire Dales, this journey takes you through the heart of Swaledale, over the famous Buttertubs Pass, into the bustling market town of Hawes and back via the stunning heights of Whitaside Moor.
The drive takes around 1½ hours without stopping, but we'd recommend allowing up to 3 hours to make the most of everything along the way. With plenty of opportunities to explore, take photographs and enjoy the scenery, it's a route best enjoyed at a leisurely pace.
Through the Heart of Swaledale
Using The CB Inn as your starting point, begin by heading over the moors to Low Row, passing two fascinating local landmarks along the way…
The Watersplash is a favourite with visitors and photographers alike, most notably recognised from hit television series All Creatures Great and Small. A little further on stands Surrender Bridge, which featured in the recent Wuthering Heights film starring Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi.
Continue through Low Row, past The Punch Bowl Inn and onwards to Gunnerside; a traditional Dales village surrounded by rolling hills, stone barns and dry-stone walls. From here, the road follows the River Swale deeper into Upper Swaledale before reaching Muker.
Widely regarded as one of the prettiest villages in the Yorkshire Dales, Muker is well worth a wander. Its village green, stone cottages and quiet charm make it an ideal place to stop and stretch your legs before continuing the journey.
The Famous Buttertubs Pass
Beyond Muker, continue up Swaledale before turning left towards Hawes, following signs for the famous Buttertubs Pass. The road climbs steadily through spectacular upland scenery, with panoramic views opening up around every bend. Jeremy Clarkson famously described Buttertubs Pass as "England's only truly spectacular road", and it's easy to see why.
Around a mile and a half from the junction you'll reach the Buttertubs themselves – a series of deep limestone potholes that have fascinated visitors for generations. According to local legend, farmers travelling to market would lower their butter into the cool depths of these natural shafts during warm weather, giving the pass its distinctive name. It's one of the Yorkshire Dales' most iconic landmarks and a must-see stop on the route.
Exploring Hawes
Descending from Buttertubs Pass, you'll arrive in Hawes, one of England's highest market towns and one of the most popular destinations in the Dales. There's plenty to see and do here, from independent shops and cafés to local attractions and traditional Yorkshire hospitality. Whether you're stopping for refreshments, a browse around the town or simply a stroll through its historic streets, Hawes makes a perfect halfway point.
Through Wensleydale
Leaving Hawes, follow the road through beautiful Wensleydale towards Bainbridge. With its attractive village green and traditional stone buildings, Bainbridge offers another glimpse into classic Dales life. Continue on to Askrigg, a picturesque village known for its historic character, cobbled streets and welcoming atmosphere. Both villages are worthy of a stop and provide a wonderful contrast to the dramatic moorland scenery elsewhere on the drive.
Across Whitaside Moor
From Askrigg, follow the signs towards Muker before taking the turning for Reeth and climbing up to Whitaside Moor. This quieter section of the route is often overlooked but rewards drivers with some of the finest views in the Yorkshire Dales. The road crosses open moorland, offering sweeping panoramas across Swaledale, with rolling hills, patchwork fields and dry-stone walls stretching into the distance.
As the road descends back into the valley, turn left at the bottom of the hill and continue through Swaledale, enjoying the scenery as you make your way back.
Time to re-fuel
After completing the loop, you’re bound to be feeling a little peckish, so stop by The CB Inn or The Punch Bowl Inn for a bite to eat and a well-earned brew. You’ll be met with a warm Yorkshire welcome, locally sourced dishes and the perfect setting to relax after a day spent exploring the Dales.